Jamaican Curry

There are times when only a Jamaican Curry will do. The most traditional and popular curry in Jamaica (and wherever Jamaicans hang out) is curry goat. Back when the "big dance" or "backyard party" was the centre of community entertainment, the main dish on the menu would be curry goat and a local 'specialist' would have to come in to cook it. If he or she got it wrong, they'd be in Big Trouble, and everyone in Jamaica is a food critic! These days anyone can be a specialist, thanks to this delicious Jamaican recipe, direct from Granny Williams in Stony Hill. The principle ingredient is Jamaican Curry Powder, which is different from Indian curry powder but evolved from Indian spicing. Curry was introduced to Jamaica by the influx of Indians who came as servants in the 1830s after the abolition of slavery. You can buy it ready-made or –better still – here is Granny Williams' secret formula:

Jamaican Curry Powder
4 tablespoons whole coriander seeds
2 tablespoons whole cumin seeds
2 tablespoons whole mustard seeds
2 tablespoons whole anise seeds
1 tablespoon whole fenugreek seeds
1 tablespoon whole allspice berries
½ teaspoon cloves
½ teaspoon black pepper
5 tablespoons ground turmeric

Combine the dry ingredients in a frying pan or skillet and gently roast over a low heat. In 8-10 minutes you will start to smell something wonderful. When you do, take them off the heat and allow to cool. (Do not let the spices burn: if they do, you will smell something horrible.) After a little while add to a coffee-grinder or mortar and grind with the turmeric. You are looking for a texture somewhere between powder and ground coffee. When you achieve it you have Jamaican Curry Powder. Store in an air-tight container and use as necessary but often. Fresh curry powder is better than stale.


Jamaican Curry Goat
Although this is a goat dish – the original Indian servants couldn't find the sheep they were used to and adapted their recipe – you can substitute another meat such as chicken or vegetables. Just adjust the cooking times.

550g shoulder of goat (keep the bone in), diced
4 tablespoons mild Jamaican Curry Powder (see above)
1 tsp fresh or dried thyme
4 tomatoes, chopped
2 onions, finely diced
1-2 scotch bonnet chillies
2 cloves of garlic, sliced thinly
Olive oil

Around 8 hours before you want to start cooking, wash the meat and place in a bowl. Sprinkle over the curry powder and thyme, mix well until the meat is covered and allow it all to infuse. An hour is the absolute minimum you can allow.

When you're ready, put the meat into a medium saucepan and gently brown it in some olive oil. Add the onions, garlic and chillies and fry until everything becomes one. Add the tomatoes and enough water to just cover the meat. Stick on the lid and allow to cook slowly until the meat is cooked – this will take 2-3 hours. If at any time the juice starts to reduce too much, just top up with hot water, – but not too much.

Season as you go along, but not too much. Allow enough leeway for a final adjustment at the end.

You will then have the finest Jamaican Curry you will have ever tasted.